I’m Deborah Pham and I’ve been a food writer for over twelve years. After contributing to several magazines and guides, I decided to launch Mint, a magazine that gives a voice to chefs, but also to producers, artisans, and — more broadly — to anyone with a compulsive love of good food. Since then, the media landscape in France has completely transformed. Today, I host a podcast while sharing my thoughts, moods, and, above all, my culinary discoveries on social media.
Paris remains a dream destination for food lovers, but its dining scene has changed dramatically over the past decade. Social media has boosted a wave of places repeating the same formula, often pouring the same natural wines and sometimes serving the same products.
For this selection, instead of listing cult spots you already know — like Early June, La Cave Septime or Chambre Noire — I’ve chosen to highlight the places I go to around Montmartre, my neighborhood. These are personal favorites, authentic spots I return to again and again.
Voilà ! Enjoy :)
– Deborah Pham, food journalist and podcast host, based in Paris, founder of Mint magazine, covering food, travel and various crafts
Breakfast / Bakeries / Café
Yorgaki Café
Yorgaki Café is one of the rare places in Paris where you can sip a Greek coffee (briki) with a spanakopita or a fresh Greek salad. Opened by creative director Yorgo Tloupas and run by Anna, who’s from Kalamata, it’s ideally located on rue des Martyrs.
Berrie, Quatrehomme and À la Mère de Famille
In the same area, you’ll find Berrie, a great greengrocer; Quatrehomme for cheese (they can vacuum-pack if you’re traveling); and the historic chocolatier À la Mère de Famille — don’t miss the Dolfentin, Guimauves de Coquin, and chocolate “Craques” (highly addictive, as the name suggests).
Mamiche
I work near Mamiche, a bakery completely overrun every weekend by tourists and content creators. Needless to say, my diet has become increasingly gluten-free by force of circumstance. On lucky days I manage to grab a baguette « bien cuite » around 6:30 or 7 pm.
Shinya Pain
I gather my patience (and my courage) and head to Shinya Pain, a tiny bakery at the foot of Montmartre run by a Japanese baker. It only opens Thursday to Sunday from 4:30 to 7:30 pm, doesn’t take cards, and opening days can change with the seasons — always check Instagram before going.
Clove
For great coffee, I love Clove, a small café where everything is excellent (I’m especially fond of their hot chocolate) and served in ceramics made by Ella, who co-owns the place with her partner Florent.
Lunch
Le Maquis
I rarely have lunch unless it’s for a work meeting. When that happens, I try to book at Le Maquis, a French bistro opened by two friends who previously worked at Le Chateaubriand. On sunny days, you might even find a spot on the terrace.
Le Mansart
For something more down-to-earth, I like Le Mansart in Pigalle. I used to go there as a student when I had no money and worked late-night shifts at the Carmen club. Prices have barely changed: the daily special with a drink is €10, the full menu €15. It’s still the kind of place where old locals read the newspaper while complaining about Macron next to broke creatives playing foosball.
Rayonnance
For dessert, I often walk to Rayonnance, a tiny pastry shop on rue de Maubeuge — don’t miss their Comté cheesecake, a dessert you won’t find anywhere else.
Dinner
Le Mansart
In Paris, aperitif often turns into dinner, with charcuterie, cheese, and a bottle of wine. Many traditional bistros were once run by families from Auvergne, like Le Mansart, where you can still order a proper Saint-Nectaire or Cantal.
CUISINE
When I want to treat myself in the neighborhood, I go to Cuisine — a French bistro with a Japanese chef, a warm team, and a thoughtful wine list. In autumn they serve a vol-au-vent so good it should honestly be reimbursed by French social security (“la sécu”), that’s how happy it makes me.
Les Arlots
You’ve probably heard of Les Arlots and their famous sausage with mashed potatoes, which absolutely lives up to the hype.
Billili
But I also love Les Arlot’s little sister, Billili. I always order the rillons — tender cubes of pork belly — with a generous spoonful of mustard and a glass of red wine.
Drinks
Condor C
In France we have a slang word: schlag. It literally means “neglected” and can describe someone or even a place. In English, the vibe is close to “effortless.” My favorite bar is Condor C, a bit of a schlag spot in the best sense of the word. I love the 80s music, the crowd, and the perfect croque-monsieur that soaks up the beers and Negronis.
Sister Midnight
In the neighborhood, there’s also Sister Midnight, where you can enjoy cocktails alongside drag performances every weekend.
Harmony
When I want to stretch the night, I head to Harmony, a late-night cocktail bar in a former Creole restaurant. It stays open until morning with DJ sets all weekend and has one of the biggest smoking rooms in Paris.
Rock Bottles
After lunch, I usually spend some time working from a nearby café before heading to Rock Bottles, an excellent wine shop that was already delivering natural wines by bike before — and throughout — the Covid lockdowns. It opens at 4 pm and closes around 10 pm, and the selection is excellent.
