Chef-owner Mike Friedman launched the popular neighborhood spot 10 years ago. Consistency and quality account for the nice run. The pastas are Biden-approved and delicious. Winey beef cheeks with pappardelle, elevated with fresh oregano, call to me when it’s cold out. Squid ink linguine with calamari, sparked with lemon and ginger, are good anytime. The chef thinks of his restaurant as “ a warm blanket,” and sure enough, honeyed lighting, friendly service and a wood-burning oven make it a comfort.
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