Serai

Fire meets flavour meets Filipino - in a Melbourne laneway, naturally.The tag 'Modern Australian' gets so much more interesting when our chefs stop being generic and start getting personal. Ross Magnaye plays fast and loose with his own Filipino aesthetic, fiery coals, natural wines, loud music and high-energy pacing and table-turning. Abrolhos scallop in pandesal, crunch and tang. The cabbage is what all other cabbages aspire to be, the best version of themselves, crusted and caramelised and meltingly sweet. (Bad photo of cabbage, sorry, looks like road-kill).