This is vivid, thrilling stuff. Cooking that stays with you. A couple of dishes will set you up very nicely, and if you have space for dessert, then you won’t be disappointed either.
Everything that arrives is modestly delivered, yet high on flavour and creativity. Ghai Haw Bai Dtoey (B280)—fried marinated chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves—is hot and fresh, just the right side of crispy with a natural sweetness from the leaves. Meanwhile, Hors d’oeuvres Lanna (B300)—Northern Thai-style hors d’oeuvres—include chili relish with minced pork, tomatoes, and spicy pork sausages. A salad of Yum Sai Bua (B280) with water lily stems, pork, prawns and glugs of coconut milk dressing is like a breath of cool air after hours in the sun. It is bright and fresh but still, of course, has a chili kick.