Moyọ̀sọ́rẹolúwa Odunfa-Akinbo, known as Chef Moyo, is a Lagos-based chef and the founder of Àtijẹ, a dining concept celebrating Nigerian and West African cuisine. After studying culinary arts in Switzerland, she gained experience in kitchens in Abu Dhabi and Belgium before returning to Lagos, where she became sous chef at Itan Test Kitchen. In 2021, she won the first season of The Kitchen Nigeria. Today, she leads an all-female kitchen team at Àtijẹ, creating inventive menus that give familiar flavours and indigenous ingredients new interpretations.
Could you tell us a little about yourself and what you do?
My name is Moyọ̀sọ́rẹolúwa and I’m a lover of all things food and culture. I’m passionate about Nigerian cuisine and culture, and this birthed the Àtijẹ experience - a dining experience where we do supper clubs, intimate dining experiences and off site events. Àtijẹ means ‘how we eat’. Going to culinary school in Switzerland, I saw a lot of cuisines on display, but I realised that mine was mostly misunderstood. At Àtijẹ, we explore how we eat as Nigerians and West Africans through our monthly dining experiences and our private dining services. Each menu tells a story of the beauty of local produce and the resilience of our people. From fonio or Acha, to Bambara groundnut, to baobab, Moringa, cocoa and many more. Our local produce has the power to transform our nutrition, excite our palates and create true and long lasting connections.
What are you currently working on or excited about?
I’m currently excited about the launch of Ìtumọ̀ by Àtijẹ, our new product line and an extension of our dining experiences. Ìtumọ̀ means ‘interpretation’, reflecting how we interpret the way we eat. We’re taking staples from our menus, like our local fruit jams made with Agbalumo (African star apple), mango and pink guava, our Donkwa (spicy peanut spread) and our tea blend, and making them available to customers who would like a taste of Àtijẹ at home.
How would you describe the restaurant scene in Lagos at the moment?
I would say it’s constantly evolving, whilst making room for a deeper appreciation of local produce. There’s a lot to choose from in Lagos.
Which five restaurants in Lagos do you particularly enjoy, and why?
My five in Lagos at the moment are:
TT Lagos, formerly Thai Thai, is a lovely take on pan Asian cuisine. The flavours are deep and bold and it’s definitely a place to go. Beautiful space, lovely crockery, polite staff, great drinks and even better food.
Lokito is my go-to local food spot at the moment. Specialising in cuisine from the South-South region of Nigeria. Their food takes time to be ready, but it’s well worth the wait for succulent stews, hearty soups and refreshing palm wine. The ambience takes you back to the Lagos of the 90s and early 2000s, complete with old school African Magic movies playing on the screens.
ONA Lagos by the amazingChef Obehi is a one in a million experience. Creative takes on local ingredients fused with a myriad of international flavours and techniques. The ambience is truly unique- earthy and welcoming, the drinks are refreshing and the food is bursting with complex flavour.
La Taverna is a Lagos OG spot. Pastas, pizzas, tacos and more at affordable prices. Chef Duhalde makes sure that everyone is welcome and it feels like home. This place is busy- so plan to arrive before the evening rush or make a reservation.
Milk and Honey is my go-to café. Run by the amazing pastry chef Olivia of Livy’s Twist, it’s big on flavour, from sweet and savoury pastries to coffees, milkshakes and lemonades made with seasonal fruits.
I can’t talk about dining in Lagos without mentioning Hans and René. They have completely revolutionised the gelato game in Lagos over the past 11 years, experimenting with seasonal fruits like Agbalumo and mango, refreshing local drinks like Zobo, and interesting local snack combinations like boli and epa (plantain and groundnut) and Goody Goody. Their gelato is excellent, and they also offer everything from chocolates and pastries to coffee and cakes. They’ve really helped showcase the versatility of local ingredients in pastries and desserts.
Any hidden gems or new openings you would like to highlight?
Particularly TT Lagos just went through a major renovation. Their new space is beautiful, yet the flavour and character of the food and drinks has been retained and even improved. It’s truly a lovely experience with wholesome and delicious food.
Which food cities around the world inspire you the most, and where do you like to eat when you're there?
I’m inspired by several places around the world, from my hometown in Ogun State to Nigeria’s food basket, Jos in Plateau State, which is bursting with lovely fresh produce all year round. Meza Malonga in Musanze, Rwanda, is another place that inspires me. Chef Malonga’s menus and stories are constantly revitalising as he explores African cuisine, spices and traditions. From tree tomato sorbets, to sorghum sourdough, and amazing coffee gelato. It’s definitely one to visit and enjoy. Rwanda in general feels like a model African country to me- we can learn quite a bit from them.
Is there a must-try dish in Lagos - if so, where would you have it?
I wouldn’t say there’s just one must-try dish in Lagos, as the city has so much variety to offer. I would definitely recommend peppersoup at Lokito, along with three local dishes: Abula, yam-flour amala served with bean and jute-leaf soups; Ayamase, a green-pepper stew with assorted meats, served with rice; and Ewa agoyin, mashed beans with smoky pepper sauce, a Lagos street staple.
In Lagos, any up-and-coming chef you think is doing great things?
Yes! I feel like the dining scene in Lagos is currently offering a lot in the way of unique chef-led dining experiences. I would like to mention Chef Eniola of the Slow food movement- she’s doing a lot of inspiring work around shea butter, cashew and many more indigenous ingredients. There are many young chefs doing amazing things.
Is there a food expert or curator whose restaurant recommendations you would particularly want to hear?
Tai of Foodie in Lagos.
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