Pascaline Lepeltier is a French sommelière, author, educator, and restaurateur based in New York. Originally from the Loire Valley, she studied philosophy before dedicating herself to wine, developing a deep passion for sustainability, low-intervention winemaking, and the political and cultural significance of food and wine. She has worked in top restaurants in France, Belgium, and the U.S., and was named Best Sommelier of France in 2018 and “Personality of the Year” by La Revue du Vin de France in 2019. Lepeltier is a partner at Chambers restaurant in NYC and co-founder of chëpìka, a natural sparkling wine project in the Finger Lakes. Her acclaimed book One Thousand Vines: A New Way to Understand Wine reflects her vision for the future of wine, and she continues to be one of the most respected voices in the world of sustainable and terroir-driven wines.
Tell us a bit about yourself.
My name is Pascaline Lepeltier. I am a French sommelière who grew up in the Loire Valley and moved to NYC in 2009. Before deciding to work in restaurants, I studied philosophy. My university background, and the region where I grew up (Anjou) shaped a lot my vision of wine : I was right away convinced by the importance of sustainable farming, especially for a monoculture like vine, and I could taste the difference in quality in lower intervention wines. I also understood food and wine were at the heart of civilisation, thus very political. I decided to only work in restaurants where I could defend real food, real wine, real taste. As wine is endless, in parallel to my job, I passed some diplomas and sommelier competitions, started to teach, to write and to make wine.
What are you currently working on?
Right now I am the beverage director for a farm-to-table, wine-focus restaurant called Chambers in TriBeCa, NYC. I am on the floor every night, unless traveling. I am also part of a wine project in the Finger Lakes called chëpìka with my friend and winemaker Nathan Kendall: we are focusing on highlighting the history of the region through original hybrids and winemaking techniques, while supporting organic farming and also different associations for the defense of vineyard workers and the preservation of the indigenous people’s culture of the region before colonisation. In parallel I write: I have a monthly column for the Revue du Vin de France, I just published my first solo book in English, One Thousand Vines, and I am starting to work on the next one. Finally I teach and lecture in NY and all over the world.
What are your three favorite restaurants in NYC and why?
1. The Four Horsemen: the ideal restaurant? An extremely inspiring menu changing so well with season and a visionary wine program built by a dear friend that passed away too soon, Justin Chearno, but whose legacy is carried on. Such a great vice, team, all.
2. Penny: Penny is a wine bar focusing on seafood with super exciting food and wine program.
3. Claud: A newcomer in the city, as it’s less than 2 years old, Claud is a sit-down, American profile restaurant.
4. Fulgurances Laundromat: a concept born in Paris and in Brooklyn for a few years, it is a “residence restaurant” with a rotation of chefs, but always extremely talented - and to go with it, a unique, exceptional list with wine gems you won’t find anywhere else.
What's are some new restaurants in NYC that you think are doing great things?
Bar Kabawa: in the old Momofuku Ko place, Chef Paul Carmichael is back for an à-la-carte, Caribbean menu, with a top cocktail program and of course wine list, with treasures from the previous Ko cellar!
Zimmi’s: a French revival restaurant in the extremely capable hands of Maxime Pradié, with the wine supervision of top talents Jenny Guizio and Cory Holt.
Cactus Wren: by the team behind 63 Clinton, Samuel Clonts & Raymond Trinh, an à-la-carte take on their Michelin star restaurant, very at ease in the Lower East Side, with a wine list more on the natural side.
Chez Fifi: a noticeable opening in an area not very recognized for its thrilling restaurant life, the Upper East Side. By the team of Sushi Noz, a NY-new-French bistrot with a fun wine list by Tira Johnson.
What are your three favorite food cities and your favorite restaurants in those cities?
- Paris… of course Paris. The last few years, Paris is totally back in the game of extraordinary food cities, because it is still French-centric (of course) but also bursting with international influences with talents who worked abroad, or are foreigners, and came back. If you combine this with the quality of the products and the technical heritage, it is fantastic. Some restaurants with delicious food and great wine lists : Les Enfants du Marché - a beating heart of food, pulsion, techniques, instinct, reason - an experience to have once, at the high top, while indulging in one of the avant-garde bottles on the list. Vantre : top, seasonal, thoughtful food, and one the best wine lists in the city, a place owned by a fantastic sommelier and wine lover, Marco Pelletier! Le Café des Ministères, a gem of a Parisian bistro with a twist from the southwest: extraordinary generous, bourgeois cooking - don't miss the vol-au-vent and the profiterole, with a really little enthusiastic list. La Cagouille: the not-that-well kept secret for top fish next to Montparnasse, with a very solid list. Le Petit Sommelier, if you are also lost in Montparnasse, and want solid bistrot food with a superb, international wine list! Parcelles, a tribute to wines where the food mixes French classic with a very modern take, lighter and fresher. Les Résistants, a group of restaurants truly dedicated to sustainability with their network of suppliers highlighted in every dish, with top quality products, and a forward thinking beverage menu - and a delicious, heartfelt food. What every restaurant who cares about sustainability should be. Bistro Paul Bert - the perfect wine bistro, that is. An institution! Trâm 130 is a newcomer, with a South-Asian twist showing how Paris is more international than ever. Yam’Tcha, a must-visit to appreciate the very precise, delicious French-Chinese combination of Adeline Grattard. I love to take the tea pairing there, but the wine list is also so well curated. Restaurant AT - delicate yet pushing the limits, precise and wild at the same time, a place that should get more recognition for the beauty of the experience, and where the low-intervention wines show all their potential.
- Lima with the beating heart that are Central and Kolle - 2 exceptional dining experiences, incredibly moving, meaningful, delicious, with a special mention for their fantastic work on beverages. But there are not the only one, check also: Lady Bee - this is way more than a cocktail bar, this is tribute to the indefectible links between liquid and solid, ingredients in all their shape and form: a perfect combination between delicious drinks, and outstanding bites coming out this tiny kitchen and counter. Cacaotal - an hymn to coffee and chocolate with 2 passionate owners who pushed their art and devotion to excellence. Demo, the perfect place for pastry! Awicha, a very personal take on Peruvian food, inspired by the cooking of the North, with depth and power. La Mar Cevichería Peruana - where you want to eat your ceviche!
- Girona, not a surprise as the city is the nest of the Roca brothers, who from their parents’ restaurant created a small empire in Girona, but with the same level of commitment in each spot. El Celler de Can Roca is for me the best restaurant in the world, for the food of course but especially for the incredible hospitality experience, and the insane wine list at a fantastic price. Vii Girona is the wine bar variation, with extremely low prices allowing everyone to enjoy great bottles. And if you can go to the coast, visit Villa Màs in Sant Feliu de Guíxols, - here too, the perfect restaurant? A beautiful view - the blue Mediterranian, a delicious, falsy simple, hyper seasonal & local cuisine, an extraordinary list at unbelievable price... I could eat every week at Villa Màs, and feel like I am in heaven. In Girona, I would go for any restaurants operated and owned by the Roca brothers.
What are your favorite wine regions, and which restaurants do you enjoy there?
Champagne: Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage - one of the most incredible champagne lists filled with iconic bottles and back vintages, but also on the pulse of the new producers.
Bourgogne: Le Bout du Monde - If you want to drink Burgundy still at a reasonable price, with a great mix of classic estates and up-and-comings talents. Also the rest of the French selection is not to be missed, at good prices. The food is simple and solid.
Alsace: One of the best restaurants of Alsace, La Table d’Olivier Nasti **, located in the Kaysersberg village, also has one of the most exciting wine cellars with a fantastic representation of the region - with hundreds of references and back vintages. The food is what you can expect from a MOF inspired by the seasons, and the sommelier team, also led by a very talented MOF - Jean-Baptiste Klein, is extremely kind and knowledgeable. If you don't want to splurge, you can also visit their other address, more down-to-earth, La Winstub next door.
Savoie: Savoie is full of fantastic restaurants with terroir-focused, locavore and sustainably driven gastronomy. 4 places come to my mind, Le Clos des Sens ***, La Table de Yoann Conte **, L’Auberge du Pierre Bise **, Le Flocon de Sel *** - each with side restaurants that are also more affordable. And in each you have passionate sommeliers who built a great selection of the local wines, finally appreciated at their value - on top of a great selection from the larger Alps (Italy, Switzerland), and in France.
Loire - Muscadet: just by the Atlantic ocean, the superb restaurant Anne de Bretagne pays tribute to the sea and the local produce, with a chef who loves wines, and a sommelier team that loves service. The wine list is filled with the best of the region, from Muscadet to Sancerre and Auvergne, but also other French gems at a very fair price.
Emilia-Romagna / Lombardy: Between Emilia and Lombardy, the perfect country side restaurant, bursting with life, local produce and love for the farmers, Ostreria Fratelli Pavesi is supported by an outstanding wine list mixing great traditional icons and newcomers at a very gentle price - la Dolce Vita.
Is there an up-and-coming chef or sommelier you’re keeping an eye on?
Oliviero Lucchetti, a gem of a sommelier, who is opening his restaurant this summer in NYC after working in Italy, UK, Denmark and Spain.
Which wine expert’s restaurant recommendations would you love to see?
I would love to see sommelière Ava Mees’ List from Noma. She has a very unique sensitivity, and her work with Noma all over the world allowed her to have a special, beautiful point of view. Also Paz Levison, for the same reason and her work with Anne-Sophie Pic. She is changing the wine and beverage experience in restaurants in France. Finally Billy Wagner from Nobelhart & Schmutzig in Berlin, that has one of the most inspiring restaurants and beverage programs in the world.
