Esa-Pekka Salonen is a Finnish conductor and composer widely recognised for reshaping the role of the modern orchestra. Over the course of his career, he has led institutions including the Los Angeles Philharmonic, the San Francisco Symphony, and London’s Philharmonia Orchestra, earning a reputation as one of classical music’s most forward-thinking artistic leaders.
Could you tell our community a little about yourself and what you do?
I’m a composer, and a conductor. This fall I’m returning to LA as Creative Director at the Los Angeles Philharmonic, and the following season I’ll join Philharmonie de Paris as Creativity and Innovation Chair and asPrincipal Conductor at Orchestre de Paris.
What are you working on at the moment – and what is exciting you right now?
I’ve just finished a tour in China and Hong Kong – with some incredible food memories too. Next up is a film production in Copenhagen with the Danish National Symphony Orchestra and a residency at the Bergen International Festival. The summer will kick off In California, where I’m artistic director at the Ojai Festival.
What's your take on music in restaurants?
I prefer silence. I usually dislike all background music, unless it is bespoke, not too loud and in harmony with the food and the interior – which is very rare. Actually I can’t remember a single example where I would have enjoyedmusic in a restaurant.
What has conducting taught you about leading creative teams - anything that translates to restaurants?
Creating a menu is much like composing – the conductor is like the head chef, whose duty is to make sure that every dish arrives at each table at the exact right moment, in right temperature and as the chef wanted it. The chef is the composer, creating unique dishes from available ingredients like the composer creates music from themes, rhythms and harmonies.
What are three hometown restaurants you return to again and again – and why?
The Progress: Quintessential California cooking, very fresh ingredients, nothing too complicated - just excellent cooking, bursting with flavours.
Anchovy Bar: best seafood in town.
Nari: one of the best Thai restaurants I’ve ever been to, very intense innovative flavours, and the owner happens to love classical music.
Where would you take a friend visiting SF?
Zuni: A California classic still leading the way, the chicken is a must.
Have there been any new restaurants in SF that you’ve found inspiring?
Dingles Public House is a new place founded by George and Anissa Dingle, a lovely couple who used to run a restaurant right next to the Davies Concert Hall – a post-concert staple. They create a lovely atmosphere that shows care for both the food and the people.
If you had to choose three favourite food destinations, what would they be – and which places do you recommend to try in each - and again, why?
Stockholm: Wedholms Fisk, perfectly cooked fish. The menu is essentially the same as it was when they first opened in mid 80’s, and they’ve perfected each dish over the years.
Helsinki: Savoy, a Helsinki classic which has had a breath of new life under Chef Helena Puolakka, whom I remember from London, where she transformed Skylon at the Royal Festival Hall London from a joke to a serious restaurant.
Milan: La Libera, an old school Milanese restaurant with classic fare, frequented by artists, intellectuals and musicians since it opened in 1979.
What’s the most memorable restaurant experience you’ve had – and what made it so special?
My first ever lemon risotto at La Latteria in Milano in mid 80’s. I was the first time I went back to Milan after I had studied there some years before, and my agent took me to lunch to La Latteria. A pairing of lemon and rice wassomething I had not even imagined. This Spring I tried to go back with my wife, but we were late to get a table.
A more recent one is a very special evening in Tokyo, just at the eve of the pandemic in January 2020, at a Inua, temporary sister restaurant to Noma. We were hosted by chef Toni Toivanen, who made our dinner one of themost exciting meals I’ve ever had.
Who would you like to see in our Member Highlight Series?
My friend, horn player Stefan Dohr, for whom I just wrote a horn concerto is a devoted foodie – like many musicians are.
