Fotis Vallatos is a food and travel writer, best known for his work with Aegean Airlines’ Blue Magazine. A passionate explorer, he visits dozens of countries each year in search of great food and unique dining experiences. Based in Athens, he is also the co-owner of Pharaoh, a wine-focused restaurant that has earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand and a spot on the 50 Best Discovery List. When he’s not traveling, he plays an active role in shaping and reporting on Greece’s vibrant culinary scene.
Please introduce yourself to our members.
I am Fotis Vallatos, a food and travel writer. I write mainly for the Aegean Airlines inflight magazine. Traveling the world for food is my passion—last year alone, I visited 35 countries and dined at over 700 restaurants. And I have no plans to stop anytime soon. Also I am the co-owner of Pharaoh, a wine restaurant in Athens, where we were recently honored with a Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition and included in the 50 Best Discovery List.
Tell us about your current project.
My wine restaurant Pharaoh opened two years ago and has been a game-changer for the Athenian food scene by serving simple, well-cooked traditional Greek food in an ultra-contemporary, post-industrial space. Every dish is prepared on wood-fired stoves, charcoal grills, and a wood-fired oven. Our chef and business partner, Manolis Papoutsakis, aims to demonstrate that Greek cuisine—beyond its contemporary acclaim—deserves to be celebrated in its most authentic form, just as it is prepared in villages and homes across the country. His approach eschews unnecessary creativity in favor of preserving culinary traditions, steering away from the tourist clichés that often distort Greek gastronomy. Alongside the food, we offer a selection of over 400 natural wine labels from Greece and around the world. We have a state-of-the-art sound system, with top DJs spinning vinyl selections every night—making it a place filled with great energy and good vibes.
Tell us about the restaurant scene in Athens
The restaurant scene in Athens is currently in its most exciting and creative phase ever. The neobistro movement, which in Greece we refer to as neotavernas, gastrotavernas, or gastrokafeneios, has finally arrived, albeit with significant delay. In recent years, we have witnessed an explosion of new, independent projects by chefs who are investing in Greek cuisine and exceptional local products—something that, as strange as it may sound, was not always a given in Athens until recently.
What are your three favorite restaurants in Athens and why
Excluding my own restaurant, of course:
- Linou, Soumpasis & Sia. Chef Lukas Mailer has a genuinely unpretentious and straightforward approach to modern Greek cuisine. He’s like a postmodern tavern keeper who truly respects top-quality ingredients and cooks with his soul. I love this guy. Additionally, the restaurant itself is one of the most elegant and well-designed spaces in the city
- Akra. Many years ago, I visited a tiny restaurant in Thessaloniki where one guy did everything—he cooked, took orders, cleaned tables—and it was some of the most exciting food I had eaten in Greece. It reminded me of a pintxos bar in San Sebastián. Fast forward, that same chef is now in Athens and still maintains that same unique energy. The restaurant he co-founded with pastry chef Spyros Pediaditakis, one of Greece’s most talented pastry chefs, serves casual, creative Greek cuisine cooked over an open flame. Don’t miss the desserts.
- Taverna Ton Filon. An old, previously unknown taverna from 1958, hidden deep in the side streets of Kolonos district, has been respectfully renovated by chef Giannis Mousios and sommelier Giorgos Kontorizos into a major hit. Their expertly executed bistronomic approach to Greek food, served in an off-the-beaten-path location, proves that people will go anywhere for great food.
What’s a new restaurant or hidden gem in Athens that you think is doing great things?
Feyrouz is one of my favorite restaurants in Greece—even though it’s not technically a restaurant but a street food spot serving top quality Levantine snacks like lahmatzoun, peynirli etc. It has better food and service than 99% of the restaurants in the country. Recently, they opened a hidden little restaurant across the street with a single communal table for ten guests. Here, chef Eleni Feyrouz prepares an exquisite seven-course menu, accompanied by storytelling that connects her family’s gastronomic journey from Antakya to modern-day Athens, blending Persian, Arab, and Ottoman influences. The food and the hospitality is simply incredible.
What’s your favorite kind of restaurant and why?
I love restaurants that are authentic, honest, and focused on top-quality seasonal ingredients. They can be a super simple casual tavern, a lady cooking on the streets of Hanoi or a fine dining restaurant, as long as they stay true to their concept. I don’t like unnecessary storytelling.
What are your three favorite food cities and your favorite restaurants in those cities?
1. San Sebastián is, hands down, one of my favourite food cities in the world. It's a city that breathes and lives with food, from young kids to old people. There are hundreds of txokos, or gastronomic societies, scattered around, and when they celebrate their local saint in San Sebastián, they hold a parade dressed as chefs. Food is deeply embedded in their culture—gastronomy is their daily life, not just a special occasion or a privilege of the elite. Old people go for a snack in their favorite pintxos bar and they eat foie gras with apple compote - not even a question in other cities or cultures.
My favourite pintxo bar is, without a doubt, Ganbara, which has been around for more than 40 years. The menu, based on seasonal ingredients, changes according to what’s available at the market, but I consider myself lucky when they serve hongo a la plancha (wild mushrooms sautéed with an egg yolk), as well as their excellent crab tarts and artichokes with foie gras. Another must-visit is Antonio Bar, the old, small one in Bergara Street, not the new one. It serves gastronomic pintxos such as ravioli de langostino en salsa de Martini and the fantastic crujiente de rabo de buey (a small fried pie stuffed with pulled oxtail). It also has one of the best tortillas in the city—but you have to go early in the morning. Then there’s Bar Desy, one of the coolest pintxos bars in town, with a traditional charm and a signature txuleta burger that is simply outstanding. Casa Urola is another historic establishment, with a pintxos bar on the ground floor (try the karmelita with anchovies, shrimp, and boiled egg, or the pulpo a la brasa, panceta ibérica y sopa de patata). It also has a restaurant upstairs, serving dishes like the excellent cod in salsa verde and grilled turbot. At Borda Berri, I always order the callos de bacalao (cod tripe in pil-pil sauce), the oreja de cerdo (pig’s ears with chimichurri), and the kebab de costilla de cerdo (pork ribs with ras el hanout and apple sauce). Another regular stop for me is Bodega Donostiarra (the one on Peña y Goñi Street), where I always get an Indurain (tuna with anchovy, onion, green olives, and small pimientos) and a tortilla.
For a proper sit-down meal, I love the legendary Rekondo, a place that captures the essence of Basque gastronomy, skillfully balancing casual and fine dining while delivering impeccably executed and profoundly tasty dishes. Don’t miss the artichoke hearts stuffed with hollandaise sauce, foie gras with fresh truffle and oxtail sauce, and the baked txangurro (spider crab). Be sure to visit the wine cellar, one of the most impressive collections in the world, with over 100,000 bottles, including rarities dating back to the 19th century! If you want an asador experience, go to Portuetxe Erretegia, where they masterfully grill meat and fish to perfection. Highlights include chipirón Pelayo (baby calamari with caramelised onions and green peppers), the beautifully executed kokotxas, and, of course, the fantastic txuleta. Finish off with a pantxineta, a traditional dessert made with filo pastry, cream, and almonds. For a seafood-focused experience, Saltxipi is also spectacular. The menu honours Basque tradition and relies on high-quality ingredients and precision in preparation. The highlights are txangurro (crab), which comes stuffed, grilled, or used as a filling for croquettes and peppers. From the mains, try the kokotxas and the perfectly grilled turbot. And also San Sebastián is located just 25 km and 75 km away from two of my all-time favourite restaurants in the world: Elkano and Asador Etxebarri. Beat that!
2. Crete, the largest island in Greece and one of the southernmost parts of Europe, is just a stone's throw from Africa. It’s a place I have visited more than 120 times— more than any other place in my life—and I feel like I know every little stone of it. In my mind, Crete is very similar to the Basque Country. Its people are fiercely localist, rough yet incredibly hospitable and warm. The landscape is also rugged, with high mountains that get snow—something few would expect in this part of the world—and astonishing diversity. The island features some of Greece’s tallest peaks, as well as one of the longest coastlines in the country, dotted with breathtaking beaches. From a gastronomic perspective, Crete is by far the most interesting region in Greece. Step outside the big cities and the touristy spots and head to the mountain villages, where no matter where you sit, you’ll most likely be served homemade food, often sourced directly from the family’s own crops and livestock. The hospitality is disarming, and the surreal, unpredictable atmosphere can lead to impromptu celebrations—suddenly finding yourself singing with local farmers at a feast during the raki distillation season.
I have many favorite food spots on the island—most of which are not even proper restaurants but traditional Greek cafés, known as "kafeneia". These multi-purpose, old-school places function as cafés, taverns, bars, and, in the past, often barber shops, post offices, and general stores. Most importantly, they have always been social hubs—and sometimes centers for heated political debates. The highest number of surviving kafeneia in Greece can be found in Crete. And in these places, you can experience what I call "the fine dining of austerity"—an unpretentious, rustic meal of a raw artichoke with lemon, freshly made cheese from the owner’s own goats, a slow-cooked lamb from his own herd, or trahana (fermented cracked wheat) with aubergine that they prepared for his family but they decided to share if a couple of portions were left.
Most of these places don’t even have names—locals simply refer to them by the owner’s surname. Some of my absolute favorites include Simos in Xeniako, Kostas in Maza, Stella in Selakano and Mathios in Drymiskos. However, there are two tavernas you absolutely shouldn't miss, both of which have been cooking over an open fire long before it became trendy: Ntounias in Drakona and Agia Paraskevi in Christos.
3. Beirut is a place close to my heart—I’ve been there so many times that it feels like home. I love everything about this part of the world: the city, the people, the music, the architecture, and, most of all, the food. Oh my god, the food! For me, it’s a culinary paradise—a fascinating blend of flavors from so many different cultures. I have countless favorite spots across the city. I love hopping from one place to another, trying different dishes, but I also enjoy sitting down for a big, maze-style dinner with many plates on the table and plenty of arak.
Al Ηalabi in Antelias Square is arguably the best restaurant in Beirut in the sharing food category, the epitome, that is, of the Lebanese culinary culture. It has the vibe of a big family restaurant and friendly service, while you can watch the lady producing the flatbreads on a traditional saj pan through a window. Another great sharing food restaurant is Diwan, famed for its sawda djej (chicken liver in a pomegranate molasses sauce) and good meat. On a slightly more luxurious note, Abdel Wahab serves one of Beirut’s best kibbeh nayyeh (a classic Lebanese dish similar to tartare, with raw minced lamb and bulgur). Just a few meters away a local secret, Kebbet Zaman is a small family restaurant that specialises in kibbeh (kind of meatballs in a bulgur crust) prepared in a variety of ways, like sajieh with lamb mince, onion and nuts, or zgharta with soft local cheese. Tawlet by the pioneer entrepreneur Kamal Mouzawek is a must for those exploring the diversity of Lebanese cuisine. This restaurant is dedicated to preserving the country’s gastronomic heritage, acting as a “map” of Lebanon’s different ethnic cuisines. Every day, a different cook from a specific community—Armenian, Palestinian, or Syrian, for example—takes over the kitchen, preparing a buffet of 12 to 15 dishes showcasing the culinary identity of their region. For a classic Lebanese food experience, head to Αbou Hassan (the one located in Hamra). An incredible small meze restaurant, serving an array of small sharing dishes. I love the vibe there so much. Also a number of restaurants in Beirut specialise in the culinary blend of Lebanese and Armenian foods. I like Varouj, a small family restaurant tucked away in the labyrinthine streets of the Armenian district of Bourj Hammoud. It serves a spectacular manti. In the street-food, the best falafel can be found at Sahyoun - there are two stores with the same name by two brothers that they don't talk to each other, choose the one on the right.
For shawarma head to Basterma Mano in the Armenian neighbourhood – try the delicious and hard-to-find basterma shawarma (made with pastirma!) – as well as at Joseph which serves beef and chicken, and is also very popular with the locals who flock here from every corner of the city. The classic Lebanese breakfast consists of hearty dishes like ful medames (fava beans), eggs with awarma (cured meat) and fatteh (chickpeas with tahini sauce and yoghurt), and is served at Le Professeur. I also love ElSoussi in Mar Elias – since 1975 is renowned for its friendly service and its ful medames with finely chopped tomato, parsley, cayenne and olive oil. Alternatively, Ichkhanian is a bakery that specialises in lahm bi ajeen, a dish with a dough base like pizza, but topped with yummy spicy lamb mince, pomegranate molasses, garlic and tomato. For knafe (also known as kanafeh in other parts of the Middle East), with a lovely chewy consistency, try Ahmad Nemer Al Wadi Sweet, a family-owned establishment that’s been in business since 1920. The ice cream at Hanna Mitri in Achrafieh, which has been around since 1949, is also a special treat, it’s made by hand and flavoured with fresh fruit. The sorbet of lemon and amareddine (apricot paste) with pine nuts is just amazing.
"From a gastronomic perspective, Crete is by far the most interesting region in Greece. Step outside the big cities and the touristy spots and head to the mountain villages, where no matter where you sit, you’ll most likely be served homemade food, often sourced directly from the family’s own crops and livestock."
What is your favorite dish and where is your favorite restaurant to have it?
Uni, Sea urchin. Fresh, raw, no lemon, no olive oil, just the water of its shell. So it could be in Japan or in a small fish tavern in the Greek islands.
Who is an up-and-coming chef you are keeping an eye on?
Chiara Pavan and Francesco Brutto from Venissa in Venice, Mark Donald from Glenturret Lalique in Scotland, Daniel Hadida and Eric Robertson from Restaurant Pearl Morissette in Ontario, Dimitrios Moudios from Ōre in Bangkok, Jeff Claudio (who he has just opened Stoke in Berlin), Alejandro Chamorro & Pia Salazar from Nuema in Quito, Juan Luis Martínez of Mérito in Lima and Michele Lazzarini from Contrada Bricconi in Lombardy.
Who is a food expert whose restaurant recommendations you’d like to see?
Kaja Savovic – We have 99% the same taste.
Andras Jokuti – We also mostly love the same places.
Malgosia Minta – She is the best for bakeries and specialty coffee shops.
Hrvoje Petrić – He has been everywhere!
Rafael Tonon – He has traveled extensively and covers a lot of simple, hidden gems.
Margaret Lam – For Hong Kong and Japan, she is unbeatable.
Michael Zee – He has a very elitist, sarcastic, and elegant way of recommending places, which I really like.
Paolo Vizzari – For Italy (and beyond).
