Glenn Kotche has been the drummer for the rock band Wilco for 26 years, while also building a parallel life as a composer and session musician working across a wide range of artists and ensembles. He seeks out cross-disciplinary collaborations – with chefs, actors, journalists, dancers, artists and more – and finds in cuisine the same essential tension between balance and surprise that animates his music. His ongoing DrumBeatProject, now in its seventh year, has produced more than 336 original weekly compositions, each a study in contrast and restraint.
Could you tell our community a little about yourselves and your work?
I'm a musician and composer, best known as the drummer for the rock band Wilco for the last 26 years, but have also been fortunate enough to work with a wide variety of artists and ensembles all over the musical map as a composer and session musician. I also seek out cross-disciplinary collaborations and have done those with chefs, actors, journalists, dancers, tech folks, artists etc.
What are you currently working on – and what excites you most right now?
I've done a lot of recording lately, there's around 10 records "in the can" that will see the light of day at some point. Upcoming releases include those with the band Sylvan Esso, my longtime duo with Darin Gray, On Fillmore, and a record of solo drumkit pieces – the latter two will be on the Finnish label, We Jazz. I've also been chipping away at composing a lengthy suite for solo expanded drumkit and electronics that I'm very excited about as well as a mini-symphony and a few concerti that I'm looking to get recorded finally. 2026 will mainly be touring with Wilco and more collaborative shows with the Norwegian writer Karl Ove Knausgård. Lots of plates spinning in the air, but I wouldn't have it any other way!
Besides the folks I've been recording with – some very current things that are resonating with me musically are Omeka Ogboh, Cocanha, goat (jp), Salamanda, Neptune's Core, Vladislav Delay Quartet – all totally worth checking out.
We hear you take food and restaurants seriously – what kind of food lover are you?
I definitely love all kinds of food and gravitate to the restaurant world for inspiration. There's been a tremendous creative explosion in cuisine over the last 30 or so years and I find it fascinating to pick the minds of chefs about combining flavors, presentation of dishes and sequencing in meals to compare to similar considerations in music. I remember cornering Tom Colicchio about this once – specifically about comparing the choices in sequencing a large tasting menu to the sequencing a record – it was a very insightful conversation.
As I write this, I'm on my 336th weekly drumbeat post for my DrumBeatProject. I started that when I lived in Finland in 2018 and wasn't performing publicly. It's a long-form process piece about creating original compositionally-minded beats that are fresh and unlock new territory for me as a drummer and composer. I'm basically creating a series of novel 3–10 second percussion compositions. A lot of that has to do with BALANCE – the high/low, loud/quiet, bright/dark, dense/space etc. dichotomies that are essential for most things that I find moving in life and art – and most things in nature too.
I most enjoy food with that same inherent balance – ideally with an element of surprise too – even if it's super subtle or hidden. I don't need a meal with every flavor, texture and temperature – but rather prefer ones that just get it all right in a way that works, sometimes unexpectedly.
What and where do you want to eat after a concert?
Because of the realities of touring life – the memorable meals on days off. On show days, I typically eat the catering that's provided at venues since I have a limited window of when to eat – right after sound check with as much time between the show as possible so I'm not weighed down or sluggish for the show. Since we typically will drive on our tour buses after the show to the next city, there's usually no time to go out to a restaurant. There's a lot of people and moving parts, so we try to be as efficient as possible!
I am typically ravished after the show though and just try to eat as healthy as possible with the late-night take out options that are offered. If we're lucky – it's sushi or something Asian, if we're in a venue in the outskirts of a city or smaller town – then sometimes the only options are pizza.
When you're on tour, what role does finding the right restaurant play for you and your band?
We try to enjoy at least one or two good dining experiences together on a day off of tour. Or sometimes I'm lucky to have a friend in town and they introduce me to one of their favorite places.
What are three Chicago restaurants you return to again and again – and why?
So many have closed recently unfortunately – I would have said chef Andrew Zimmerman's Proxi – but that just sadly went away. I loved taking out of town guests to this upscale, globally-minded place that was as beautiful as it was delicious.
- Lula Cafe by Jason Hammel and Lea Tshilds has been at the top of my list for 20 some years. I've always had amazing meals and experiences there. It's a must visit in my opinion.
- I also love Frontera Grill by chef Rick Bayless. I've gotten to collaborate with him which was super fun and challenging. But he consistently "knocks it out of the park" with everything he does. Frontera has been a Chicago staple along with his Topolobampo – incredible. His and his wife Deann's dedication and high standards are always evident.
There are several other fantastic Chicago finer restaurants, but economically speaking – I'm not returning to those all of the time. There are few "mom and pop" places that I really enjoy and keep returning to though – namely JT's Genuine Sandwich Shop, Honey Butter Fried Chicken, both near where I live and both are super delicious and consistent. Also, for fresh made pastas, Tortello in Wicker Park is always great.
Where would you take a friend visiting Chicago?
Always Lula Cafe for dinner (or breakfast or lunch!), but I also love the vibe of Parachute HiFi by Beverly Kim and Johnny Clark – great cocktails, vinyl and food with a Japanese Jazz-Kissa atmosphere – very cool. Also, any of Paul Kahan's restaurants are sure-bets and always a joy: Avec, Publican, Big Star etc. Like Rick Bayless, he's another Chicago legend.
Have there been any new restaurants in Chicago that you've found inspiring?
We went to a popup restaurant in an apartment operating under the name Duck Sel not too long ago. The food was delicious, the concept was whimsical, and it was a fun place to celebrate at.
It's not a restaurant, per se, but the Sugar Hole is a small ice cream window that is run by puppets. You literally place your order with and pay puppets! It's a fabulously goofy idea that brings a smile to everyone who goes there. It's part of the Color Club, a wonderful arts and music collective run by Josh Dihle and Abby Monroe, and it makes me happy just that the place exists.
If you had to choose three favourite food destinations, what would they be – and which places do you recommend?
This is too difficult! I'd rather talk about a few hidden gems, but first will definitely cite Helsinki as one of my personal favorites. It's been a while since I've been unfortunately, but because my family lived in Espoo for a year, we got to try a lot of wonderful places. Nolla and BasBas were both memorable every time we ate there for sure – also the closed Inari. I have been lucky enough to have eaten Pipsa Hurmerinta's food many times (her brisket is still my fav!). Even the traditional Lapland restaurants were great. So many wonderful options in that city, too many to list here!
It would also be very easy to include Seoul, Copenhagen, San Francisco, New York, Tokyo – too many great options, but instead, let me mention these more out-of-the-way places that I've visited several times and have always been amazing:
- Frasca in Boulder. Incredible food, wine and hospitality. Top notch and any of Bobby Stucky's places are beyond fantastic, especially Pizzeria Alberico and Tavernetta in Denver.
- The Dream Away Lodge in Becket, Massachusetts. The band usually goes when we're at MASS MOCA for our festival, Solid Sound – home cooking flavors in a charming and inviting atmosphere.
- Los Poblanos Inn and Farm in Albuquerque – another very cool and unique place with great food.
- My go-to old school rural supper club – The Duck Inn Supper Club in Delavan, Wisconsin. Step back in time with a fish tank at the bar, loads of taxidermy water fowl decorating the walls and so many classic side dishes and entrees – and of course the classic Friday fish fry!
- Lastly – I must include Pellegrini's in Melbourne, Australia. Technically an espresso bar but old-world pasta is what I go for – and the watermelon juice! When I'm there, I also always go to Cookie Thai restaurant!
What's the most memorable restaurant experience you've had – and what made it so special?
Okay – three – apologies!
- Best overall ever – a multi-course special vegetarian tasting menu at Lula Cafe in Chicago. I brought composer John Luther Adams there and was absolutely blown away. Jason Hammel got every single element and detail about that dinner perfect.
- Noma in Copenhagen – the first time was at the old location with Nels Cline and I had never had pairings like that before (or insects). The creativity and flavor of the food with those super funky wine pairings were incredible. Luckily I was able to relive that experience with my wife Miiri and some wonderful friends at the second location and again, every aspect was so well thought out and above and beyond – we felt like royalty.
- Alinea in Chicago. One of my first fine-dining experiences ever (we were lucky enough to eat at the original Charlie Trotter's previously). My mind was blown at what was happening – so much attention, creativity and consideration. Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas created so much more than a meal – it was a total experience.
Who would you like to see in our Member Highlight series?
I'm sure Neil Finn from the band Crowded House would have some great NZ choices amongst others. Multi James Beard winning / Chicago friend / and food writer Steve Dolinsky – he knows so much about food. I can imagine the extremely entertaining Yo Yo Ma has many food stories. Geddy Lee from Rush has incredible wine and you know he's eaten at some top-notch places. I'd be interested in hearing a visual artist's take on cuisine – maybe Glenn Kaino, Theaster Gates or Mark Bradford, maybe. I bet Laurie Anderson would have a very interesting take – she always does! David Byrne, Peter Gabriel – enough said.
