David Yoshimura is the Chef and Owner of Nisei in San Francisco. Originally from Houston, Texas, he built his career in New York, Japan and Spain before returning to California to help shape the celebrated restaurant Californios. At Nisei, he brings together his Japanese heritage and Californian roots in a personal and contemporary way. The restaurant has been recognised with a Michelin star, and David himself with the Michelin Young Chef Award, establishing him as one of the most exciting voices in today’s dining scene.
Please tell a little bit about yourself.
My name is David Yoshimura, and I’m the Chef & Owner of Nisei and Bar Iris.
What are you currently working on?
Nisei is a one-Michelin-star Japanese-Californian restaurant serving contemporary Japanese-American food. We source exclusively from sustainable local purveyors and highlight them on our seasonal tasting menu. The cuisine at Nisei is a personal reflection of who I am now as both a chef and a person.
Tell us about the restaurant scene in San Francisco.
The restaurant scene in San Francisco is lush with multicultural influences, and the fine dining scene is particularly strong. One of my favourite things about the Bay Area is its deep connection to Asian cuisines and communities. Post-COVID, San Francisco was one of the last cities to recover fully, but only recently has our vibrant restaurant community returned to its full potential. Now, we’re seeing a renaissance of new restaurants and bars bringing exciting food to the Bay.
What are your three favourite restaurants in SF, and why are they great?
House of Prime Rib – the ultimate steakhouse in SF, serving martinis and prime rib for decades.
Swan Oyster Depot – a true SF classic offering no-frills seafood and a charmingly gruff staff.
Californios – Val Cantu’s two-Michelin-star Mexican restaurant. I may be biased, as I once worked there, but I think he is a true inspiration for both Californian and Mexican cuisine.
What’s a new restaurant in SF that you think is doing great things?
Four Kings is the hottest restaurant in town, and they deserve all the accolades they’ve received. Chef Franky Ho is an extremely hardworking chef, and his food is delicious.
Do you have a hidden gem in SF you’d like to highlight?
Lillie Coit’s is a French-American restaurant in North Beach that stays open late. My staff and I probably go there one or two times a week after work.
What’s your favourite kind of restaurant, and why?
I’m very partial to old-school restaurants that haven’t changed their menu in decades. Institutions like these—places that have mastered one thing and stayed true to it—are real treasures and should be cherished.
What are your three favourite food cities and your favourite restaurants in those cities?
Tokyo
Den - Two Michelin Star Japanese Comfort food from chef Zaiyu Hasegawa
Mexico City
Quintonil - Chef Jorge is continually evolving the restaurant and pushing the boundaries of Mexican cuisine.
New York City.
I could go on forever listing restaurants in NYC. These are just a few of my favorite restaurants in. The Variety is endless there.
Katz’s Delicatessen, the iconic NYC Deli, serving pastrami sandwiches and other classics.
Great NY Noodletown is a classic spot in Chinatown, known for dishes like shrimp wonton soup, beef noodles and duck over rice.
Torishin, a yakitori restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen, serving their perfected charcoal grilled skewers both omakase and a la carte.
Torien, a sibling restaurant to famed Torishiki in Tokyo, with executive Chef Hideo An Yasuda grilling skewers over Binchotan charcoal.
What is your favourite dish, and where do you go to have it?
Tex-Mex fajitas – my favourite place is Lupe’s.
Oyakodon, chicken and eggs, a traditional Japanese dish, at Toriryori Tamahide. They’ve been serving the dish for a few hundred years. I’ve heard their opening times have been irregular recently.
Who is an up-and-coming chef you’re keeping an eye on?
Chef Jacob Kear of Lurra in Kyoto. He is half Japanese, and his cuisine has some similarities to mine. It’s inspiring to watch from a distance and see someone with a similar background thrive.
Who is a food expert whose restaurant recommendations you’d like to see?
Chef Franky Ho at Four Kings in San Francisco.
