“Keep it simple but elegant,” says top chef David Deshaies. Wooden farm beams and Murano glass chandeliers share the sky-high ceiling and pastas as basic as bucatini alla carbonara are offered alongside a 40-layer (count ‘em!) lasagna. The dancing flames of the wood-fired grill explain the Italian name: “burning,” as in passionate. This is a playful restaurant. The “risotto” is actually minced calamari and a pizza topped with pomegranate seeds and shaved Brussels sprouts looks like Christmas. Ask for the tiramisu and it arrives in a chocolate globe that’s ignited with rum at the table.
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