Nahm

U the guidance of chef Pim Techamuanvivit, Nahm confirmed its place as one of the top restaurants in Asia by gaining a Michelin star for the third consecutive year in 2020. The food is a modern take on traditional Thai fare, with strong, fresh flavours, balancing hot and cold, sweet and salty. I might single out the pigeon curry for particular mention. Pigeon isn’t a meat commonly used in Asian cooking, and when it is the quality is invariably hideous. This was a shredded larb of the best-quality pigeon—pork being the most commonly used in Thailand—and an excellent example of the fact that birds don’t have to be cooked with the bloody speed of an electrocution victim to be palatable. An accompanying plate of crispy catfish represents carbohydrates and cucumber, parsley and celery leaves, presented a cool palate cleanser.