The multicourse set menu isn’t showy but everything tastes impeccable. Evelyn’s Room sits in the basement of the Blue Post pub in London’s Soho. There is room for a dozen people here, mostly round the counter that overlooks the kitchen. There three brothers preside: Luke, Nathaniel and Theo Selby. They are the key to this place. Their quiet charm and understated talent shape the experience. The multicourse set menu isn’t showy but everything tastes impeccable. I particularly loved the mushroom dashi broth with soba noodles, which shows the influence of Luke’s time spent in Japan. (Luke was part of the team at the 3* Nihonryori Ryugin, in Tokyo with Chef Seiji Yamamoto and later became head chef at Hide.) The menu here will evolve but I wish you the good fortune of being served the miso caramel Pink Lady tarte tatin for dessert. It had been fashioned in the shape of a rosebud and was delicious.