Norman Van Aken is an American chef and one of the founding figures of New World Cuisine, known for blending Latin, Caribbean, Asian, African and American influences long before “fusion” became mainstream. Best known for his namesake restaurant NORMAN’S, he is the only Floridian chef inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who in American Food and Beverage. He has written six cookbooks and a memoir, appeared on shows including Parts Unknown, and today also supports food-insecure families through his role as Culinary Director of the nonprofit Get Cooking.
What are you currently working on or excited about?
A number of things. I am working on a new memoir, my second. I wrote of my early years becoming a chef titled, “No Experience Necessary”. Tony Bourdain wrote the cover blurb. This memoir will be circled around my 30 plus year deep ‘brotherhood’ with Charlie Trotter. It begins when he started his very first cooking job in my kitchen and takes us across the early years of what became known as “New American Cuisine”, our life-long correspondences, our events and travels with many other of the giants in the industry and our personal lives.
I continue to work with my team at NORMAN’S. Our restaurant opened in 1995, so 30 plus years now.
My charity partner Stacie Archer and I have a non-profit named, “Get Cooking”. We are dedicated to helping economically at risk families learn to cook delicious, healthy and affordable meals that can feed a family of four for 20.00 dollars or less. We began the project and have now taken it to Orlando. We teach via Zoom so the families can be in the familiar comfort of their own kitchen. We have grown from 40 to about 100 families. They are provided the same meal kit as one of the chefs who we select and bring in to grow the repertoire of dishes constantly.
How would you describe the restaurant scene in Miami at the moment?
In a state of flux. The flow of money into Miami has been a huge driver in changing the region’s culinary opportunities. It has had many new to the area and well monied operators coming in like never before, often showcasing a cuisine that can occur almost anywhere, like in Las Vegas, London or Dubai, with little that shows Miami’s relevance culturally. And there are those that, like me, push forth a reverence for the local products and multicultural nature of our populace.
Which five restaurants in Miami you particularly enjoy, and why?
Ariete: Chef Mike Beltran’s homage to his cultural roots. The room is rustic for such an aspirational menu. I like it that way. Make no assumptions though - the food is as fine as you will find in places that overspend on design and such.
Macchialina: Chef Mike Pirolo has one of the very few places I will recommend on South Beach. The chef grew up in Italy for part of his childhood and the flavors of that country are the best you can find in all of Miami. It is a place that families can feel comfortable in going to and many celebrations take place there because of that.
Boia De: This was a ‘hidden gem’ for all of about 12 months. But despite an unlikely strip mall location the cooking of Alex Meyer and Luciana Giangrande caused the eagle eyed food hunters to blow the cover off and soon it was one of the hardest reservations to score. Seating is limited but the inventive, respectful cooking is wide open.
Tâm Tâm: These folks took Vietnamese cuisine to a level not seen in Miami before, unless one goes way back in time to a restaurant that sadly is no longer with us, ‘Hy Vong’ was its name. If ‘Hy Vong’ had a grandchild heavy into skateboarding and hip hop this might be it. Small, raucous, tasty as all get out.
Daniel’s Steakhouse: Those who know me would likely be amazed to see me select a steakhouse for such a list. While it features great beef from insanely well-sourced places, it’s all the other things that led me to make a reservation there for a very special year for us. The vibe reminds me of the way I hope my guests felt about us when we were operating in Coral Gables all those years ago. Celebrate whatever the occasion may be, even if it’s just because you are alive – and one should do that!
Any hidden gems or new openings you would like to highlight?
Places go from “hidden gems” to “hard to get into” ones. My sense is that Cotoa is going to be an example of this. The food is Modern Ecuadorian and the chef is Alejandra Espinoza.
Which food cities around the world inspire you the most, and where do you like to eat when you're there?
Chicago: Smyth by John and Karen Shields. Their seasonally changing Tasting Menu.
New York: Gramercy Tavern is still a favorite. Danny Meyer is one of the finest operators on the planet. We love to drop in at the front area when we are not planning ahead.
New Orleans: Compère Lapin by Chef Nina Compton as well as Emeril’s, now run by Emeril Lagasse’s and Alden’s son E.J.
San Sebastián: Rekondo. We dined here with dear friends and felt like we’d stepped back in time to a more refined and gentler civilization. The local hake fish cooked over live fire and the incomparable wine list featuring vintages going back decades, but not marked up so only for the tech bros, is a memory I will treasure forever.
Is there a must-try dish in Miami - if so, where would you have it?
Many feel that they should have a proper Cuban Sandwich in Miami. There is only one place I feel tops all others and that is ‘Sanguich’. Misspelled on purpose. They take every ingredient as seriously as any tweezer wielding Michelin wannabe.
In Miami, any up-and-coming chef you think is doing great things?
The husband and wife team of Recoveco: Maria Teresa Gallina and Nicolas Martinez.
Is there a food expert or curator whose restaurant recommendations you would particularly want to hear?
There is a gent in Miami named David Rosendorf that is a lawyer by trade but he and his wife Lisa seem to find the gems in the city before I’ve even hard of them. I’d be happy to ask them if stuck for ideas.
