Perry's Restaurant

Sushi has long been a lure here; the arrival last year of Masako Morishita — the first Japanese woman to pilot the kitchen — introduced some of the most inventive dishes ever. Udon noodles get the carbonara treatment, and crab cakes, veined with shiso and set in dashi, marry the Mid-Atlantic with Japan. Sunday mornings might be the most novel meal of all: drag brunch, a staple since 1991.