Bowl after bowl of technicolour and fire
The study and exploration of Thai food have been gaining purchase for some time. I don’t mean the clichéd staples of pad Thai and som tam, packaged and presented in a swanky setting, but a widening appreciation of its versatility and regional brilliance. At the wildly popular Baan Ice (there are multiple outkets), recipes represent and bounce around the southern reaches of the country, chef Ice Supaksorn serving up hot and prickly flavours, bowl after bowl of technicolour and acidic smashes, a jumble of sour-sweet recipes, playful levels of spice and mingling mouth-puckering ingredients.
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